How to read a hair color level chart

A hair color level chart turns a complicated shade code into a plan you can understand. Instead of guessing from a model’s hair, you compare depth and tone with your own starting colour. That small step makes choosing permanent colour, toner or a targeted lightening service far less hit-and-miss.

Colour formulas often pair a number from 1 to 10 with a letter or two, such as 7.43 or 8.1. The number tells you the depth of the result; the letters describe the direction of the tone. Read together, they reveal the colour you are aiming for and give your colourist or supplier a useful shorthand for your outcome.

Charts are not identical across brands, and sunlight, previous colour and hair damage can change the result. Treat a chart as a map rather than a promise. Check the key on the product or colour guide, then adapt the plan to your hair rather than relying on the number alone.

Read the numbers on the ladder

Most professional colour charts use a ten-level depth scale. Level 1 is the deepest black, while 10 represents the lightest blonde or platinum range. In between are progressively lighter brown and blonde shades. The exact appearance at each level varies by brand, so compare levels within the same range whenever possible.

The important distinction is depth versus lift. A permanent colour can create or imitate a level, but it generally cannot lift natural hair above its own depth. If your hair is naturally level 5, applying a permanent level 9 shade will not make it a level 9; a separate lightening step is needed.

Decode the undertone letters

The letters add the undertone, which is the colour family sitting beneath the depth. Common conventions use a for ash, b for beige, g for gold and n for natural, although brands may assign slightly different meanings. Always check that product’s key before using a shade found elsewhere.

Warm tones lean towards red, orange and yellow, while cool tones tend towards blue, green and violet. Ash helps neutralise orange, and blue-violet is often used against yellow. Natural or neutral shades are easier to maintain, but their balance depends on how much pigment your starting hair already holds.

If your hair is already light but brassy, the practical advice on correcting brassy tones explains how a toner can shift the colour without another full bleach. Remember that toners deposit colour; they do not lift. Check the depth and undertone together so you do not neutralise one issue and create another.

Match the shade to your starting point

Existing coloured hair does not have a natural level, so begin with the colour underneath it. Look at untreated roots, grown-out lengths and any previously lightened sections. If the roots are much darker, a single all-over formula may flatten the difference or create an obvious line at the regrowth.

Porosity matters just as much. Highly porous, over-processed hair takes up colour quickly and can become darker or more intense than intended, whereas healthy hair may need more time or a gentler processing method. Use the manufacturer’s developer and timing instructions; adding extra developer or leaving dye longer is not a reliable way to correct porosity.

Local conditions count too. Salt and chlorine from an Australian summer can dull a fresh colour, especially if you surf at Bondi or swim in a Gold Coast pool. Salons in Sydney and Melbourne often work with “root melts” and “lived-in blondes”, so discussing coverage, tone and grow-out clearly helps.

When a shade is genuinely complicated, you can compare experiences on a colour advice forum before committing to a corrective colour. A strand test on a hidden section gives you a better guide than a photograph, particularly across different roots and lengths.

Plan the formula and after-colour care

Match the product to the job. Permanent colour is a common choice for changing depth, creating a defined result or covering grey with a compatible formula. Demi-permanent colour works without lifting and is useful for tonal shifts and shine. Semi-permanent colour deposits a more temporary tint, while bleach or lightener removes pigment to create a lighter base.

Follow the Australian instructions on the box, including the patch-test directions and recommended processing time. Some permanent colours contain PPD, which can cause sensitisation. Do not use a formula on previously bleached hair unless the product directions say it is suitable, and do not improvise mixtures.

After rinsing, use a colour-depositing shampoo or conditioner and a treatment suited to your porosity. Conditioning helps the cuticle remain smoother, which can make colour look more even. Australian colourists often describe the professional steps as a “lift”, a “tone” and a “finish”, so it is worth asking whether a salon quote includes each stage.

Compare options and take the next step

Use your notes to compare starting conditions rather than simply hunting for the lightest number on the swatch card. The practical choice depends on what your hair can accept, how much regrowth you need to blend and whether the goal is coverage, a tonal refresh or a genuine lift.

Starting condition	Typical chart position	What it means	Practical approach
Natural black or dark brown	Levels 1–3	Colour alone offers little natural lift	Choose a deposit or gloss; use professional lightening for a dramatic change
Medium brown	Levels 4–6	Permanent colour can deepen or shift the tone	Match a warm, cool or neutral undertone to your goal
Blonde or lightened hair	Levels 7–10	A pale base may need yellow or orange control	Use toner or demi-permanent colour for tone and shine
Grey or white hair	No meaningful natural level	Coverage depends on pigment and product type	Choose a permanent colour specifically labelled for grey coverage
Coloured lengths with natural roots	Two starting points	One formula may leave a visible boundary	Consider separate applications or a root-melt technique

Now put the plan into action: identify your natural depth, note the undertone you actually want, and choose one formula suited to that combination. Speak with a qualified colourist about a strand test or personalised consultation if you are unsure. Gather your colour, matching developer and after-colour care from Killerstrands, then follow the label precisely rather than guessing at strength or timing.